Return to Bahía Del Sol

August and September 2004

Monday, August 23, 2004

We crossed the border into El Salvador last Monday about noon after a not-too-early start from Antigua, Guatemala.  The crossing took almost 2 hours most of it spent getting the paperwork done to bring the car into the country.  We got 60 days for the car but only 30 days on our tourist cards.  We have to return the 3 hours to the border in 60 days to renew the car papers, but our visas can be extended in San Salvador.  We stopped along the coast for a super fish meal and did not get to Bahía until 4 PM, just in time for Happy Hour drinks, two for one!.  We first checked into a hotel room and then joined the other cruisers around the pool.   Drinks and food at the hotel are almost as costly as stateside but with the cruiser discount of 30% it is not too bad.  We also get the hotel room at a discount and it only costs us $60 per night for the nice two-room suite. 

The weather here is only warm but the humidity is quite high.  The three nights that we stayed in the hotel allowed us to sleep in air conditioned comfort while we slowly adapted. 

Our first night here, about dusk, Bill got a ride out to Lanikai.  With much effort, in the dark, he got the dinghy launched, running and drove ashore.  The boat did not smell to musty but the batteries were completely dead. 

Tuesday morning Bill added water to the batteries.  They drank up lots of water and then began taking a charge.   Mid day, after putting new fuel in the dinghy tank as the motor had given up on our morning return to shore, we dinghied down to visit with Murray and Colette (Tarazed).  Murray ordered new golf cart batteries for us.  They are manufactured here in El Salvador and shipped to the States.  Murray has made great progress in his house construction but Colette is not ready to move off the boat yet fearing that progress will stop.

We ferried several loads from the car and I managed to find stowage for almost everything.

Wednesday morning we ferried and stowed more books and parts out to Lanikai.  The new batteries arrived mid-afternoon.  They were brand new and the first step was to fill them with acid.  Bill and Murray did that before they ferried them out to Lanikai.  We left them in the cockpit to finish reacting and to cool down while we returned ashore for our dinner and our last night in the hotel.

Thursday’s chore was to install the new batteries.  Of course the new batteries were slightly wider than the old ones and the tie down brackets were in the way.  We removed them, planning on replacing them “sometime later”.   By mid afternoon the batteries were installed and the solar panels were charging them.

Jan (of Quantum Leap) brought in a wonderful National Geographic video of the Mayan ruins at El Mirador.  The cruisers enjoyed watching it after our Happy Hour drinks and a cooling swim. 

Friday - Bill replaced the bad raw water pump on the main engine with the spare only to discover that the thru hull valve had broken in the closed position.  Since I had had trouble closing that valve last February we had brought a spare one south with us.  Bill, in the meantime, checked the rest of the hoses and discovered a real bad fuel hose leading into the final fuel filter on the engine.  It took a bit of effort and finagling since the bad hose was a special engine part, but Bill got the old fitting off and hose clamped into a new length of hose. 

Saturday we set about to replace the bad thru hull valve.  With much effort, with our bodies folded into the bilge, we got the valve to turn only to discover that the whole thru hull was turning and not just the valve.  We gave up for the day, gathered up our bilge treasures, and dinghied down to Tarazed’s land for a cruiser’s swap meet.  We gave away many of our items!!  What was left went into the trash at the hotel.  Bill discussed with Murray some possible solutions to our stuck valve but none were to Bill’s immediate liking.  He wanted to think some more, hoping to find an easier way.  We returned back to the hotel for a lunch and a swim.  Bill mentioned our problem to the other cruisers enjoying the pool.  Dennis on Emarada suggested using a Dremel tool and he just happened to have one.   The cruisers all dinghied down to a restaurant that only opens on the weekend, for dinner.  Their specialty is Pupusas but they also serve fish and shrimp dinners.  We enjoyed Pupusas!!!

Sunday morning about 8 during high slack, I dove under Lanikai and plugged up the bad thru hull with strips of thin fabric liberally coated with bee’s wax.  Bill then borrowed the Dremel tool and set to work.  The sun had put enough charge into our batteries that the tool could be used.  In a short time he had the valve cut off.  The packing held and we got no sea water seeping in.  After Bill got the new valve installed and the plug pushed out we called it quits for the day.  We again ate at the “weekend restaurant”.  This time Fernando with his current novia (girlfriend) arrived and we sat and visited with them. 

Today, Monday, August 23, Bill got the rest of the salt water system plumbed into the engine.  We took a break while we listened as four boats left crossing out the boca in fairly calm conditions to the ocean.  It looked like we might get another thunder shower tonight so I put up the rain catcher.  We have almost emptied out the car and today we ferried the computers and the new printer to Lanikai.

Tuesday August 24, 2004

During the night last night we had a great thunder shower and collected 15 gallons of water to start the refill process of our water tank.  Bill got the engine fuel lines connected and we fired her up only to discover that the “supposedly repaired” water pump was leaking too.  We had spare bearings but no seal.  A trip to Murray’s proved that he had the tools to replace the bearings so we took off to Zacate to find seals.   After visiting several stores we acquired what looked to be the right seals as well as two more bearings to repair the second pump.  We ate a late lunch at Camperos. 

The cruisers had a pot luck on Quantum Leap tonight but we opted out - planning to attend a little late as we were quite stuffed from our late lunch.  We never made it over as the rains hit again with much wind and lightening.  We sat in the cockpit enjoying the rain while Bill read the first chapter in our current read-aloud book.  It is a book about the founding fathers.

Wednesday August 25, 2004

Bill took off early in the morning down to Tarazed’s place to repair the pump with his new parts.  I went ashore and pumped up our new dinghy that had ridden south on top of our car.  Bill returned saying that the parts were not quite right but Murray had a seal so we are in business with one good pump.  Bill helped with the commissioning of the new dinghy by painting on the words Lanikai and adding four decorative fish to its bow.  We got a bridle installed for the painter and lines for lifting her.  We returned to Lanikai for lunch and another read. 

Thursday August 26, 2004

Bill got the repaired pump installed on the main engine and we ran it for about 15 minutes only to discover that the engine was overheating.   Not much water was being pumped out the exhaust so maybe there is a salt plug in the system or an air bubble in one of the high spots.  The motor was too hot to research further so we went ashore to transfer the outboard motor to the new dinghy and finish commissioning it.  The old dinghy was bagged up after drying in the afternoon sun and now takes up the entire back seat of the car since it would not go into the trunk.

Friday August 27, 2004

Our first drive into San Salvador today was a success!!  Bill’s first priority was the correct bearings and seals for the leaking salt water pump.  After visiting 8 stores he had parts that would work but were not exactly the brand that he wanted.  We then went to the big hardware store where he purchased a Dremel tool for himself, new bolts for the dinghy motor, and some contact cement.  From there it was a easy drive to Metro Sur and our favorite Mexican restaurant.  Before we left the area we stopped by Amanda and Roberto’s office to say “hola”.  We made a not-so-quick stop at Coplasa for dinghy cover material and then returned to Costa del Sol with only one wrong turn.

Monday August 30, 2004

This weekend we started to use our computers in the morning and working on projects in the afternoon.  Bill still has an uncompleted “work” project that he needs to spend some time on.  Saturday Bill spent his afternoon time working on the little Kubota battery charger engine.  He flushed and cleaned the coolant system, repairing the small electric pump that we had installed in it.  He also cleaned out the salt water system removing several good salt plugs.  The new salt water pump still needs installation and the diesel needs bleeding.  He hopes to get that engine running this afternoon.  Yesterday we had planned to walk to Puntilla for a fresh fish lunch, but the tide was real high and the beach was not walkable so we put that off until next Saturday; returned to the pool and enjoyed a few beers while we read in the cool shade of some palm trees.  Both Saturday and Sunday nights we ate Pupusas for dinner at the ”Weekend Restaurant” visiting with both locals and other cruisers.    We are continuing to have thunder showers each evening.  The last two nights it continued to rain lightly for much of the night and today is still cloudy.

Tuesday August 31, 2004

Yesterday Bill did get the genset engine running but it too seemed to have a low salt water outflow.  We only ran it a short time as the batteries have been topped off by the sun.  At high slack, about 4PM, we dove under Lanikai so that Bill could clean the prop and I spent about 30 minutes in the water scrapping tiny barnacles off the hull.  We then dinghied into the hotel for a fresh water rinse, a swim and a well earned beer.

Today Bill again went into the water at slack and put a new zinc on the prop shaft as the old one had fallen away.  Since it had been in good shape last February it was probably another case of rusting screws.  The zincs seem to disappear only slowly while Lanikai is anchored away from docks.

Friday September 3, 2004

Wednesday we started out the day with a visit to the new clinic near La Herradura where our friends Randy and Gayle from Otter were volunteering their services as dentist and aid two mornings a week.  Bill had pulled out a filling last week with a piece of candy and Randy told him that he would fix it if he came to the clinic.  The tooth was repaired but needs a crown done in San Salvador in the near future.  Then we both had our teeth cleaned by Andrew from Nueva Vida who was also offering his services at the clinic.  We then, after trying to connect to the internet at the café in San Marcelino with no success, continued on to Zacatecoluca to the internet café there.  Bill spent some time getting reset up, updating our web page and sending out e-mails.  We had ice cream for lunch before returning to Bahía.

Yesterday, Thursday, Bill fixed the kinked raw water hose and the engine seems to be putting out enough water.  We then turned on the freezer and let it run for the day while we went ashore.  Bill set up his computer in the restaurant while I got started on the new dinghy chaps.

Today we again ran the main engine.  It definitely puts out more water but not quite enough as it got hotter than usual while we ran it to top off the batteries.

Saturday September 4, 2004

We had an interesting night last night.  We again had a storm but with very little wind although the strongest blow was against the current.  We collected some water from our rain catcher as the rain was not very heavy either and we both went to bed.  About an hour later we got rudely awaken by a large thump.  A trimirane that had been poorly anchored had broken loose and was impaled on our bow in the current.  We fended it off as it rapidly moved down our starboard side and disappeared astern off toward the boca.  Bill and I then got on the radio to get some help in catching and re-anchoring the tri.  No one had their radio on but we finally got a come-back from the hotel.  Gustavo from the hotel took the hotel’s fishing boat to rescue the tri and got her tied up to a buoy.

The next day we discovered that the tri had been holed below the waterline and so Allen and Stephanie from Sunshine, another tri, moved much weight from the hull to the opposite wing.  The tri seems to be floating level now.  The owner is out of town.

We again ate dinner at the weekend restaurant.  I ordered a shrimp cocktail that proved to be very large.  Amanda and Roberto showed up just as we started eating.  They were waiting for Juan to come transfer them to the rancho.  We had a short visit and they joined other friends for a bite to eat before crossing to their rancho.  We were invited to come over for breakfast Sunday morning.

Monday September 6, 2004

Yesterday we dinghied over to the rancho at the early hour of 8AM.  Latita and Amanda had fixed a BIG traditional breakfast, fried platanos, scrambled eggs with sausage, chorisos, tortillas, beans and cream.  After breakfast and a wonderful visit with Amanda, Roberto and their friends Doris and Salvador, (from Isla Tasajera) we piled in the panga for a trip to Tasajera and the boca for a swim.  We returned to the rancho for a light lunch and a nap in the hammocks with a cooling breeze.  All in all it was a very relaxing day.  We again got the midnight rain storm but only light wind and little lightening so after closing up we returned to bed.

Today Bill started working on our taxes so that we can have a better estimate for our September quarterly.  I pulled out the sewing machine for some canvas repairs then reinstalled my HF radio and the new TNC.   

Wednesday September 8, 2004

Yesterday we went ashore fairly early and spent almost the entire day at the hotel.  Bill took our dinghy up the launch ramp to place it near the pool and I got the new dinghy cover sewn onto the tubes, cutting holes for the various hand holds and fittings.  Bill spent the day at his computer in the restaurant first figuring out our tax estimate for this year and then on his unfinished work project.  We enjoyed the pool after returning the computer and sewing toys to Lanikai.  Only a few other male cruisers were in the pool with us as the females had made a shopping trip to San Salvador and were not back yet.

This morning I picked up my first weather fax of the season and made my first connect to winlink with the new Pactor III mode.  Bill spent much of the morning getting his computer and the printer in sync while I cleaned the floor of the cockpit.  

Sunday September 12, 2004

The last part of the week was uneventful.  Bill spent much of Friday afternoon with Jose, from Migracion, getting paperwork ready to take into San Salvador Monday to extend our visas for another 60 days.  People arriving at the airport automatically get 90 days but at - at least some of - the road border crossings they will only give 30 days and there is much paperwork to extend them to the 90 days. 

Thursday night we had a lot of rain with some lightening.  Only 3 strikes were close at all, but one of the boats had the bad luck of being too near one of the strikes and got hit.  Not sure of all the damage but at least the VHF antenna is gone and their tricolor light is in pieces on the deck.  Friday night and last night we got some rain but not much.  Just enough that we had to close up the boat. 

Today our old VHF radio finally died so we installed our new radio.  It is great but the external microphone that they sent with it was not the correct one.  We did not discover the problem until we had run all the wires for it to the steering pedestal.  Our invoice was for the correct part but the wrong one was sent.  Of course, we can not just run to the store to correct the problem. 

Wednesday September 15, 2004

Today was El Salvador’s Independence Day so all offices were closed.  Bill and I took a dinghy ride to the see the Boca and then beached the dinghy so that we could enjoy a great fish lunch at Don Emilio’s Palapa.  Our after meal, beers were cut short by a rain storm as we hurried back to Lanikai to close her up again.  We have had much rain all week so far.  Not just the usual evening showers but several days it has rained much of the day.  We have had some rain each night for the last three weeks and the last week it has rained all night many nights.  This is much wetter than I remember from two summers ago.

Monday when we took the papers into Migracion it rained and we had to bail out the dinghy upon our return.  We got all the papers turned in but have to return tomorrow to pick up our newly stamped passports.   Many of the cruisers returning now are getting 90 days at the border and those coming by plane have always gotten 90 but if you only got 30 days, like us, at the border there is much paperwork required to extend for the extra 60 days.  After doing our paperwork and a little shopping we stopped by to see Amanda.  Fernando took us out for lunch to a restaurant up on a high spot overlooking the city.  We had a great view for lunch but then drove further up the hill, hiking even higher and our view was of a large cloud bank.

Wednesday September 22, 2004

Another busy week has passed.  Thursday we picked up our passports with a stamp for 60 more days in El Salvador.  It was ready when we arrived and having little to do in El Salvador we drove on to Zacate so that we could hook up to the internet and get our last week’s mail.  We also stopped at the grocery store and pick up some more food.  I am slowly stocking the freezer again.  One of the e-mails that we received told Bill that his side programming project was done.  That put a big smile on both of our faces.  This past weekend we got Lanikai ready to anchor again and Bill - finally - got the motor to spit out enough sea water.  It no longer overheats!  Monday we moved off the buoy and anchored with three other boats up near Tarazed’s land.  Our old spot was still occupied by one of the boats that was planning on leaving but could not, due to the roughness of the bar.  It is sure great to be swinging from our own hook again.  The last two days  we then spent tying up the loose ends of small repair projects and are now ready to tackle the new windlass and all that its installation entails.

Monday September 27, 2004

Friday we drove into San Salvador to find a small recirculating pump for the genset cooling water and to fill our propane tanks.  Then we were invited to spend the night with Amanda and Roberto.  We purchased a pump which turned out to be to large for our purpose and without much thought purchased a slice of an aluminum 10” diameter bar to modify our radar mount for the new dome.  Well, the aluminum turned out to be too small and too thick for our purpose so another trip into the city later this week is in order to find the right something.  Our trip to the propane farm was through much traffic but we did manage to find the place and get the tanks filled and even return to Amanda’s and Roberto’s office before 6PM.  Amanda gave Bill directions to their home and they lead us right there.  Saturday after visiting with Amanda and eating a large breakfast we spent the rest of the morning reading waiting for Roberto to finish at the office.  About 1 PM we left toward Costa del Sol giving Roberto a ride with us.  We stopped for Pupusas along the way and arrived at the hotel about 3.  Bill ferried Roberto to the rancho after bailing out much rain water from the dinghy.  He returned for me and our packages.  We stayed at Lanikai long enough to stow our new purchases and change into swimming attire then it was back to the hotel for a swim.  As we got out of the pool, Victor showed up asking us if we wanted to accompany them to the Bocana.  We walked to the panga through the shoreside rubble at low tide and enjoyed an hour or so of sitting in the shallow low tide pools at the boca visiting with Roberto.  They returned us to the hotel and our dinghy and we all moved on to Restaurant Mar y Sol for a dinner of Pupusas.  Amanda showed up late in the evening and invited us over for lunch the next day, Sunday.  Sunday, after a morning of reading, we dinghied to the rancho and continued reading in the hammocks, even sleeping some.  Lunch was a late one and very filling, so Bill and I opted to skip dinner and read some more instead.  We are reading Tom Clancy’s “Into the Storm” together.

Today Bill worked up his list for Downwind Marine with the hopes that PJ can transport at least some of it south to us next month.  Then its off to Zacate to the internet café to send it all off.  Tom and Jane from Promise traveled with us to Zacate and after the internet café and a little grocery store shopping we enjoyed an ice cream and returned home.

Thursday September 30, 2004

Tuesday Alan from Sunshine came over early in the morning and the two guys removed our old radar with only a little help from me.  I spent the time gathering all the parts needed to install my new antenna tuner which Bill helped me install Wednesday morning.  It was a much bigger chore than I had thought since all the existing control wires were just a little short.  Over the same two days Bill also got the new radar head installed and electricity to it although we can not install the new dome until we get the old mount modified. 

We gave the old radar to Sunshine so they took us out to lunch on Wednesday.  About noon we dinghied over to their boat and tied our dinghy to the stern, they have a trimiran.    They then upped anchor and drove passed the boca to Isla Tasajara where we anchored off a palapa-style restaurant up on pilings over the water.  We all had whole fish for lunch with a couple cervezas and visited away the afternoon.  We discovered that we had seen their tri, before they had purchased her, sitting in a small side bay in Bahía San Francisco in the Sea of Cortez.  It had sat there for many years with the owner living aboard.

Today Tarazed’s travel lift is supposed to arrive.  Bill and I took off in the car to try to catch photos of the container’s arrival but since there was no sign of it by 10 AM we continued in to Zacate to send off some important e-mails.  The container did not arrive until well after dark.