Zihuatanejo

Spring 2002

Monday February 25, 2002

We just dropped the hook in Zihuatanejo Bay amongst lots of other sailboats.  We had a no-wind motor south from Caleta de Campos in almost flat seas.  It was a very nice overnight passage with an almost full moon but a thin cloud cover that hid most of the stars.  About two hours out we had a pod of dolphins join us for almost an hour and entertain us by riding our bow wake.  We look forward to again making contact with many old friends that are already anchored here.

Wednesday February 27, 2002

Yesterday we went into town to do the check in-paperwork but first stopped by Mañana to visit with Marsha and Dave and get clued in on the process.  It was then off to Rick’s Bar for a great map of the town before heading off to Migration to get our despachos stamped.  A walk back to the wharf and visit to the Port Captain got us stamped in but then it was off to the bank to pay fees before we could return to the Port captain to pick up our completed papers.  Since it was already early afternoon and we were getting hungry we again stopped off at Rick’s Bar for super hamburgers and finished the check in procedure with the Port Captain this morning.  Last night we had dinner in town with our friends from Gemini, Les and Diane, at a great tamale restaurant.  The tamales were huge and at 10 pesos each we all had two apiece.

Today it was into town early to finish off the paperwork at the Port Captain's the with Les and Diane we caught the bus to Ixtapa where we checked out the marina and made reservations to leave Lanikai there when we fly to Oregon.  Stopping to visit with our many cruising friends that we met along the way ate up the day and when we finally returned to Lanikai it was almost 5PM.  But a most enjoyable day.

Saturday March 2, 2002

Thursday was boat day and we spent most of the day on Lanikai doing small projects and catching up on “computer paperwork”.   Again we had dinner in town with friends, John and Linda from Hawkeye.   They are leaving in the next day or so to start their journey to Central America. 

Yesterday was e-mail and laundry day.  After a failed ham radio schedule with my dad at 2PM we went into shore with two large bags of laundry.  They were left at one of the many lavanderias to be picked up today clean.  We then found an internet café that would allow Bill to connect into their net with his computer.  While he sent mail and surfed I walked to Comercial, a large superstore, and purchased a backpack full of food.  I am starting to stock up on some staples for our trip to Central America coming up in mid-April.

Tonight was a party at Rick’s Bar, the local cruiser hang out, to celebrate the completion of a 5 year circumnavigation by Margarita.  We had loads of fun visiting with the many cruisers that attended.  It was followed by the regular Saturday night show of Mexican dancing and singing.  The show was presented by a group of high school students to raise money for their education and was very well performed and quite entertaining.

Sunday March 3, 2002

Today was work on the freezer day.  Our freezer can be charged down with either an engine driven compressor or a 12-volt one.  The 12-volt system has been working well but the engine driven one worked the first few days out of San Carlos with its new charge of Freon but then quit working.  Today Bill charged up the system again and checked for any leaks with soapy water.  No leaks to be found but the system had lost its Freon somewhere.  Bill had tightened a fitting at the dryer unit and we are hoping that this was the leak but we're not too optimistic about it.  I made a new bag for storing the oars in, in the dinghy, as the old one had sun rotted.   Lunch and siesta ate up the rest of the afternoon.

Monday March 4, 2002

Another day of computer play for Bill while I sewed two courtesy flags, one of El Salvador and one for Nicaragua.  Late afternoon found us back at the internet café where Bill collected any new mail since Friday.  I walked off to the grocery store and continued to buy items to fill the larder.  On the way back to Lanikai we stopped by Mañana and ended up visiting with Marsha and Dave until almost dark. 

Thursday March 7, 2002

Tuesday I woke up in the wee hours of the morning with a bad stomach.  Seems after 5 years here I finally got the tourist bug.  With some medicine that Bill picked up after things opened in the morning, I was feeling quite well by Wednesday morning.   While I rested the Tuesday away, Bill made great progress on his picture presentation program that he has been spending much effort on.

Yesterday, Wednesday,  Bill again tackled the freezer problem.   Since it still was loosing Freon he removed the dryer to properly tighten the suspicious fittings then reinstalled it.  Since that required both hanging upside down in the bilge and squeezing himself in front of the engine he was left sore and tired for the rest of the day.  We did go ashore to check e-mails and I made another run to the big super store for another small load of groceries.

Today it was another stay on the boat day.  Bill copied lots of his Christmas downloads to CDs so that he can make room on his computer for more downloads later this month while we are in Oregon.  He also helped Mañana get their computer cleaned up and loaded with the latest airmail and world tides programs as well as getting their weather fax program working.

Friday March 8, 2002. 

This was Bill’s day to have stomach problems, his manifested itself as a very acid stomach that resulted in several bouts of hiccoughs.  He took a long afternoon siesta but that only sort of helped.

Sunday March 10, 2002

Early Saturday morning we were again woken by the obnoxious squeak.  It had both of us up hunting and determined to find it as this was the third night that it had bothered us.  After spending quite some time on deck wiggling things and finding nothing I went below to see if it was coming from the head or the engine room.  It sounded like it was coming from under the boat so I asked Bill if it could be the rudder.  Sure enough, when he checked the upper end of the rudder post he found our squeak.  The short tiller-arm had worked its way down far enough that the key had fallen out and hence the squeak when a roll put force on the rudder.  Reassembled properly and our squeak was gone.  Fortunately this happened while at anchor!

Lack of sleep and Bill’s still not feeling well; Saturday was a slow day.  I had a great ham radio contact with Craig in the late morning and after lunch we did go into town.  Bill did e-mail while I again loaded a pack at the new supermarket.

Today we both woke up rested and ready to roll.  Bill started out the day by replacing and attempting to repair our house water pump; another part to pick up stateside will have it as good as new.   I scrubbed off the sea life growing on the freezer’s shade blanket where it hangs in the water; then I shortened it so that it no longer has this problem.  We then tackled the freezer again.  Since it seems to be holding pressure since Wednesday’s repairs we topped it off with more R12 allowed it to run through a cycle and now are again on the “watch see” if it still holds pressure.  The last chore of the day was to drain again the outboard oil and give it one rinse before refilling it with clean oil.  Water is still getting into the oil and parts to effect the repair are on order stateside.  Until then we are just using it and when the oil gets too milky changing it.  Friday we go into the marina and Bill can dismantle it, ready for repair when we return. 

Tuesday March 12, 2002

Bill’s hiccoughs gave him trouble all day yesterday but last night they calmed down for him and he got a good nights sleep.  Today we went into town early.  While Bill did e-mail and pill shopping I went to the central market for some nice fresh veggies.  When we returned to the boat I decided that the life line rails needed cleaning but about half way through I discovered a bolt head on the deck.  It was from one of the stanchion bolts and naturally the most difficult stanchion to reach the nuts on the inside.  It required removal of the kitchen dish cupboard which Bill proceeded to do.  The project was finally completed as the sun set with only restowing the dishes was left to do.  All this work seemed to bring on Bill’s hiccups with a vengeance. 

Friday March 15, 2002

Yesterday Bill finally went to a doctor in Zihuatanejo.  First we moved the boat to Ixtapa marina, upping our anchor just as a large Cruise ship dropped theirs in the center of the bay.  We took the bus back to Zihuatanejo and using our trusty map from Suzy on Wishful Thinking  found a doctor.  He prescribed much antacid-type medicine both before and after meals and using any favorite folk remedy to ease the hiccoughs.  Bill is doing much better today and seems to be able to keep the hiccoughs under control much of the time.

Today Bill dismantled the outboard motor so that when we return from Oregon we can bring any needed parts with us.  I mopped the deck early in the morning while it was still wet with dew.  Then I spent a bit of time fixing the screen for the forward hatch so that it can be used with the wind scoop.  Last night about sunset we squished a few mosquitoes in the cabin and  hurriedly got the screens up.  As we head into Central America in the rainy season  they will probably become much more essential than they have been in dry Mexico.

Saturday March 16, 2002

We made two trips into Zihuatanejo today.  One in the late morning to pick up laundry and more medicine for Bill; his hiccoughs are definitely decreasing and he never woke up once last night with them.  We enjoyed visiting with friends at Rick’s Bar while we ate a small lunch.  Late in the afternoon we returned to town to check out the Oaxaca festival that Bill had seen being set up in the Plaza earlier in the day.    We had a fun time people watching and checking out the booths.  I picked up a few gifts to take stateside with us.  It is getting more difficult to find something different to take to family or friends as we have been in Mexico almost 5 years now. 

Wednesday March 27, 2002

We returned to Zihuatanejo today with granddaughter Emily after a very busy week spent in Oregon.  We flew north on Monday March 18 and arrived in Portland somewhat after 10PM.  Gretchen met us at the airport and Bill and I rented a car for the week.  We spent the night in Portland with one of Gretchen’s friends.  Gretchen had school early in the morning and Bill and I had a few stops to make before meeting up with Doreen's folks who flew in that Tuesday morning.  I spent a few hours shopping with my mother before we left my parents to their hotel room as they both were tired after their early morning departure and we drove on to The Dalles. 

We arrived in The Dalles, stopping first at Gretchen’s to see Ginger and Emily.  Taking Emily with us, we went out to our friends, the Lovell’s, to drop off our luggage as we were taking advantage of their wonderful hospitality and stayed there again as on previous trips to their town.  Emily then went with us to The Dalles Yacht Club to attend the pre-meeting dinner where we visited with many old friends. 

Wednesday was not quite as busy a day but we did drive back into Portland with Emily and oldest-daughter Ginger in the early afternoon to meet up with everyone at the Troutdale MacDonald’s with its indoor play area.  About 3 hours were spent at the MacDonald’s and both Gretchen and Doreen’s parents showed up.  It was then off to Clark College for Gretchen’s nursing school graduation pinning ceremony.  It was a very nice and not too long a ceremony and even Emily seemed to enjoy it even then she and Grandpa Ward did the pinning.  We were all proud of Gretchen’s accomplishment!!

The next three days were spent visiting with family and friends while Bill tried and finally succeeded at finding the time to complete our 2001 taxes.  Sunday it was back into Portland to send Ginger off back to Montana.  After Ginger left we spent some time helping Gretchen with bathroom repairs.  Then today very early, we left The Dalles at 3AM, it was our turn to return home.  We brought Emily with us and she was a great little traveler on the airplane sleeping through much of the journey.  Much needed sleep for her after the last busy week.

Thursday March 28, 2002

Today Emily and Doreen  played on the beach and in the surf.  We made two trips over to the local public beach.   Emily is unafraid of the water although a little wary of the big waves but she sure enjoyed jumping with Grandma through them.  Then when Grandma got too tired to help her jump more Emily found a comfort level in about knee high water jumping some waves and rolling in others. 

Bill spent the day putting the tiny outboard engine back together with the spare parts brought south with us.  As old as the engine is it was not as easy work as it could have been, but by day's end the outboard was again running.

Friday March 29, 2002

We left the marina with the late morning high water and motored to Isla Grande with the sails still covered and sun shades left in place.  This was Emily’s first trip on the boat so we took the easy route.  Soon after we were anchored we all swam off the boat.  Emily climbed down the ladder with no problem but was fearful when she discovered that there was no bottom.  The jet skis and pangas were creating lots of wakes but it did not take Emily long to feel secure enough to not hold on to me, as long as I stayed close so that she could grab on when the waves got to rough.  Still being tired from our over-activities yesterday we all took afternoon naps.  After which we went for another short swim.

Saturday March 30, 2002

Emily did give me a break while I tried to contact Craig on our Saturday morning ham radio schedule but the band was crowded with contesters and although I found a hole to give Craig a call it was not a very good one and I never heard him.  I gave up and instead went swimming with Emily.  It was early enough that the many water toys were not out yet, so the waves were few.  Emily was soon paddling away from me in her life jacket feeling quite comfortable in the water so we traded the jacket for water wings and she continued to enjoy the water.  Lunch time came and again we rested on the boat until late afternoon, trying to keep Emily’s very white skin out of the sun, an almost impossible feat!  Late afternoon found us dinghying into shore where Emily again enjoyed playing in the water.  We had to paddle the dinghy in because the motor refused to run in spite of Thursday's work on it.   Grandma had to keep a keen eye and hand nearby as Emily had no fear and many times walked into water too deep.  I helped her to practice putting her head back into the water to float on her back, she has almost mastered that trick.  We are now waiting for her to fall asleep.  Both Bill and I managed naps today but not Emily.   I would sure like to tap some of her energy!!

Monday April 1, 2002

Two more days of swimming with Emily from the boat in the mornings and then to the beach in the afternoons.  Emily found some friends to play in the sand and swim with yesterday at the beach.  Today she mostly played alone but of course she had much time with Grandma in the water as well. 

Sunday was Easter and the Bunny had brought Emily candy inside a large piñata.  She was appropriately surprised when she woke up and found it sitting on the salon table.  The chocolate eggs with a surprise toy inside were her favorites and Bill helped her put some of the toys together during the early evening slow time.

Bill did find time yesterday morning to get  the outboard running well again, and this morning for maintenance on the main engine.

Wednesday April 3, 2002

Yesterday we again spent at Isla Grande where Emily made more progress at learning to swim.  Bill dove under the boat to clean off the prop but checking the rest of the bottom showed only a few barnacles that were easily removed. 

We again went into the beach which had many more tourists.  Emily even found some friends to play with in the sand and water. 

Today, after a short swim around the boat, we upped the anchor and moved back to Zihuatanejo Bay.  We anchored in the little nook on the north side of the bay where Emily and I had another swim late in the day.  Today was a slow day for all of us.  I guess that all the swimming with Emily is wearing me down and Bill’s boat bottom cleaning was his first in a long time and left him sore.

Sunday April 7, 2002

The last few days have been real busy.  On Thursday we spent the morning cleaning the boat and getting ready for the arrival of Gretchen, Emily’s mom.  Bill and Emily even made a water run so that I could rinse salt out of the many towels we had used.  Then shortly after 1PM we headed out to the airport to meet her plane.  Emily was sure excited but was mostly good while we waited at the airport.  Gretchen arrived very close to on-time and we returned to Zihuatanejo on a small combi-bus similar to the one we had ridden out on.  Gretchen and I got off early to pick up a few groceries at the large Comericial grocery store.  Then we walked the rest of the way to the dinghy landing and met up with Emily and Bill at the internet café nearby.   After a short visit and a few drinks at a nearby restaurant we returned to Lanikai for dinner and to get ready to move back to Isla Grande in the morning.

Friday we were up and moving early.  Even though we had to fight a current most of the way, we had the anchor down in our favorite spot at Isla Grande.  Soon thereafter Emily, Gretchen and Doreen were overboard and in the water.  The three of us, after spending some time swimming around Lanikai, then swam into shore.  Bill made some readjustments to the outboard and then followed us in.  We stayed on the beach until after 4PM with Emily in the water much of that time.  We returned to the boat with everyone hungry and tired.  Hamburgers were soon on the grill and it was early to bed for all.

Saturday was almost a repeat of Friday except we all got a later start toward shore as Gretchen spent some morning hours studying for her big test that she takes the Thursday after they return to Oregon and I had a morning radio schedule.  

Sunday again we spent the major portion of the day on the beach.  Emily actually swam today and would swim around us as long as her mom or I were nearby.  We also had her floating on her back before the day was out.  Élan anchored in the bay late Saturday so today we enjoyed Guy and Deborah's company on the beach and played several hands of Mexican Train dominos between swims with Emily.

Tuesday April 9, 2002

Gretchen and Emily flew out this afternoon back to Oregon. 

Yesterday, Monday,  Gretchen and I visited and she studied for several hours in the morning while Bill and Emily visited on Élan.  Debora helped Emily to string some beads into necklaces and bracelets, while Bill and Guy “played” with Élan’s computer.  We  had lunch and a quick swim off of Lanikai before upping the anchor.  A nice motor sail back to Zihuatanejo Bay and a quiet evening completed the day. 

This morning Gretchen and I went into town early so that Gretchen could pick up a few gifts to take home with her.  Bill and Emily played on the boat and came into town around noon.  It was then off to the airport and good bye.  Bill and I made a shopping run on the way back to Lanikai.  It sure is quiet around here after the last two busy weeks!

Thursday April 11, 2002

Yesterday we spent the morning and well into the afternoon both typing on our computers.  We were way behind on e-mails which I wrote and Bill had much bookkeeping to update.  Bill then made the final pass on our log page heading south from San Carlos to here, so that it could be uploaded to our web.  When all was done, we went into town and spent several wonderful hours at Rick’s Bar visiting with Matt and Judy from Elsewhere.  Bill took off for about an hour to the internet café to send off the many messages I had written, pick up the many waiting messages and to add the next page to our growing web page.

Today we were into town early so that the check out papers could be completed.  We are now ready to leave Zihuatanejo for Huatulco, but since Rick’s Bar is having a closing Potluck Saturday night we now plan on waiting until either Sunday morning or Monday morning to head south (well east actually).