Summer 2000

August and September

  Tuesday August 1, 2000  -  North of Punta San Antonio

After a great night’s sleep last night, gentle winds and nothing too strong, we had a wonderful day.  Since the Chubasco two nights ago, the breezes have been cooler and dryer.  This morning we took an early walk on the beach where I added a few shells to Emily’s collection.  When we returned to Lanikai we spent an hour or so in the water, much of that time cleaning small barnacles off her bottom.  The heat of the afternoon was spent relaxing below with books, computers and radio.  Late afternoon found us again in the water exploring a nearby reef. 

Thursday August 3, 2000

Yesterday we moved further north, about 30 miles.  There was little wind so it was a motorboat ride on flat seas.  The wind was beginning to pick up as we dropped the hook in a little nook just a mile south of Punta Conception and the mouth to Conception Bay.  Lots of great rock formations line the shore and there is even a sandy beach area.  Today we went ashore and climbed up on the point to look down on the bay.  Lots of great areas for snorkeling were visible so later in the day we headed south around the point and spent several hours in the water exploring.

Monday August 7, 2000  -  Los Pilares

Friday we spent much of the day in the water, starting in the morning when the water was the clearest.  The area seems to be not so fished-out and there were lots of fish including a few new varieties for us.  Bill spent several hours chasing the larger ones with his spear but had no success.  He has gotten more particular with what he shoots.  He now goes after larger ones as the small ones are just as much work to clean and produce much less meat. 

Saturday morning in the early wee hours we were hit with another Chubasco.  The first blast brought winds that pegged the wind speed meter at 60mph, but after about 5 minutes they settled down to about 35.  The whole storm passed in about 55 minutes but it left us rolling the rest of the night.  In the morning, the rumble of thunder could still be heard, and soon we got a nice drenching downpour that even produced light hail for a time!   The rain lasted most of the morning and gave us and Lanikai a much needed rinsing.   Mid- afternoon with the boat still rolling we moved around the corner into the anchorage at the north end of Bahía Conception where we spent a peaceful night in flat seas.

Yesterday we moved north to Isla San Marcos where we anchored off the west shore.

Wednesday August 9, 2000  -  Isla San Marcos

The snorkeling is great here off the NW point of the island.  Bill shot a nice triggerfish for dinner Monday night but Tuesday he broke the last two bands of his spear gun so it looks like there will be no more spear fishing until we replace them in Santa Rosalia.  The reef is quite pretty and interesting to explore and we have certainly been eating enough fish so it is no real heartbreak.  I expect that Friday we will move the next ten miles north to Santa Rosalia, spend the weekend there to restock, do e-mail and laundry. 

Today we made the long dinghy trek to the small town on Isla San Marcos.  It was about an hour trip with our 2.5 hp outboard.  It is a company town for the gypsum mining that is done on the southern part of the island.  We chatted with some local men sitting under a shade palapa above the panga landing area where we landed our dinghy.  The town has been around for about 100 years but the gypsum mining has only been active the last 20; there are about 800 residents.  We walked through the town to the beautiful white church built out of gypsum blocks.  It had lovely stained glass windows and fresh flowers were on the altar.  It sides on a nice plaza with an outdoor stage and a school is right across the street.   The school’s exterior was covered in well done paintings of cartoon characters and the yard contained nice looking playground equipment.  Nearby was the grocery store.  We did a little shopping there and it was well stocked and air conditioned. 

Friday August 11, 2000

Yesterday Murphy again proved that he was alive and well on the boat.  The batteries had finally gotten down to where we wanted to add back in some amps with the diesel battery charger.  The first problem was a lift pump that would not pump fuel from the main tank to the little day-tank of the genset.  After much effort, in the heat, the pump was replaced.  Its diaphragm was eaten away by the low-sulfur diesel.  The new one should last awhile before the same happens to it.  After filling the tank, the genset motor would not start.  We eventually gave up playing with the small diesel engine and ran the main engine instead.  It ran fine for over an hour then we shut it down and let it cool for an oil change.  Later when Bill started to change the oil he discovered little oil left in the engine pan but the bilge was full of the yucky black stuff.  After toping off the oil again, the problem was discovered to be a blown hose to the oil cooler.  It was soon repaired but by then it was after 5:00 in the afternoon and none of important e-mails had been written to ship off by phone when we get to Santa Rosalia. 

Today we stayed at Isla San Marcos to write e-mails and get new web pages ready for posting.   Postponing going into Santa Rosalia until tomorrow gave us an opportunity to type out here where it is somewhat cooler and less stifling than anchored in the harbor.

We also got hit with another Chubasco late in the afternoon.  This thunder storm came from the Baja itself and barely made it out over the water before it began to dissipate.  We got about 30 minutes of a nice cooling breeze out of it with the strongest winds only 30mph.  After the hot humid day that we had had it felt great!! 

During our late dinner, just after sunset, we got a real treat as a large blue whale blew several times quite nearby as he slowly swam south right past Lanikai.  The first blow brought us from the table up into the cockpit where we finished eating.  All the storm clouds produced a spectacular red and orange sunset too.

Sunday August 13, 2000  -  Santa Rosalia

Yesterday, in the afternoon we raised the anchor and motored on into Santa Rosalia in very light winds.  The docks (all 10 of them) here are full and there were already 3 boats anchored in the harbor.  We anchored off the docks but in the way of the fuel barge with the hope of being away before it arrives.  After anchoring, we made a trip into town to purchase rubber tubing for Bill’s spear gun and visited the ice cream store where we both enjoyed our first ice cream in several months, in air-conditioned comfort!   Returning from town we discovered  that the “Palapa of Knowledge” was busy and we spent the late afternoon hours there drinking cold cervezas and visiting with other cruisers.  After the sun had set we walked back into town to enjoy the super hot dogs from the hot dog vendor that sets up his cart each evening in front of the church.

Today we had breakfast, until afternoon, on the cool balcony of the Hotel Frances with Karen and Wes from Caprice.  It was an enjoyable lazy time!!! and the food was yummy.   We then walked into town and found a phone in the shade where Bill spent much time downloading two months worth of e-mail and uploaded two new pages for our Web, complete with pictures.  We then enjoyed another ice cream at the air conditioned Thrifty.  Since most of the stores in town closed at 1:00, the rest of the afternoon was spent sitting at the palapa of knowledge enjoying cold cervezas and good company.

Monday August 14, 2000

We got hit with another Chubasco about 1:00 this morning.  Peak winds were only in the 30-35 range, but being in tight quarters here we kept a good eye out.  Watching the squid fisherman return and unload their pangas at the nearby, almost too near, dock occupied us too, as well as the spectacular light show, always in the distance, while we waited for the wind to calm down.  By 3:00 AM things had settled down enough for me to return to sleep and Bill to finally go to bed.

Today we made several trips to town to restock the pantry.  By early afternoon it had become too hot to make more trips so we decreed ourselves done and spent the afternoon under the shade of the Palapa of Knowledge at the marina.  

Tuesday August 15, 2000  -  Punta Trinidad

We left Santa Rosalia this morning about 9:30 headed north.  There was little wind until early afternoon so we rounded Las Tres Vírgenes in calm seas and light wind under motor power.  Soon thereafter we had a sufficient breeze to raise the spinnaker.  We had a wonderful spinnaker run all the way to the anchorage behind Punta Trinidad.  The anchorage here is rather rolly as the swells from the SE refract around the point.

Wednesday August 16, 2000  -  San Francisquito

After a rather rolly night we moved further north to San Francisquito today and anchored in the somewhat more protected bay here.  The trip north was a hot motor boat ride in no wind but we did have the current with us much of the way.  We managed to hook two nice Dorado but both decided not to come to dinner and got away.  Along the way we passed by many seals, either fishing or just basking on the surface with flippers sticking up out of the water.   The wind finally picked up after we anchored, a pleasant surprise that brought at least the feel of cooling.  Later in the evening we caught the edge of another weak Chubasco, winds only to 35 but it kept us up until we were sure that it had passed.  

Saturday August 19, 2000

San Francisquito has been a pleasant anchorage.  We first anchored toward the SE side of the bay, but twice a day we got rocked by strong tide rips so we moved over to the more traditional anchorage off the nice white sand beach.  We have had lots of sea lions fishing in the water nearby.  They are fun to watch and it is hard to miss their snorts as they surface for a breath of air.

Thursday was a cloudy day.  It seemed like it wanted to rain but we never got more than a few drops.  The weather cooled significantly though.  Until today we have had nice E to SE winds here in the bay and a very pleasant temperature if we stayed out of direct sunlight. 

This morning Bill fixed new bands for his spear gun. We dinghied out for an early snorkel and returned with two nice trigger fish.  Two of the fillets filed our lunch sandwiches.

In the early evening we dinghied into the inner bay to visit Guy and Deborah on Elan.  We took over a pizza made with our left over spaghetti sauce.  Debbie fixed trigger fish hamburgers which were quite good.  We visited until well after dark.  We were glad that we had left our anchor light on when we made the trek back to Lanikai.

Monday August 21, 2000  -  Isla de Las Animas

Yesterday we spent some time exploring the underwater scene at several locations around the bay and found them all to be green with poor visibility.  Today we moved further north in search of clearer water.  We had a wonderful downwind sail with working jib only, pulling us along at about 4 knots.  We anchored at the north end of Isla de Las Animas in a little nook.  Two commercial tourist fishing boats were anchored here when we arrived so we anchored just inside of them.  Come nightfall they both left towing a fleet of pangas which their guests used for fishing. 

Wednesday August 23, 2000

Yesterday was a cloudy blustery day.  We took advantage of the cloudy condition to go ashore where we found not much more of interest than some interesting rock formations.  I took advantage of some of the higher spots to get photos of the little bay, really just a nook that we are anchored in.  The wind blew all day with gusts up to 25mph, but in the little nook we are  protected from the waves and swells that roughened the water out in the channel.

This morning we checked out the reef off the land to the east of us.  It was great and Bill quickly got two triggerfish then joined me in just looking at the wonderful sea life among the rocks.  After snorkeling we dinghied over to the Jose Andres, a fish boat out of San Felipe that takes “Gringo” passengers on a week long fishing trip into the Sea of Cortez.  We enjoyed coffee with some of the crew while we visited.  They have 6 pangas for their passengers to fish from and since they carry a maximum of 18 passengers that means each panga only has 3 fisherman plus a guide.  While we were there one of the crew was steadily reeling in nice triggerfish.  They freeze the meat and when they return home,  the crew has fish to take with them for their family.

Friday August 25, 2000

Yesterday we took off around the western point of the bay and discovered some great snorkeling.  Although still full of nutrients and schools of tiny fish, the water gave us about 20 feet of visibility. 

This morning, we took a long dinghy ride over to and all the way around Isla Salsipuedes, the island just north of our anchorage.  The weather was calm and flat today so it was a perfect day for such a trip.  On the way over we passed near to a group of sea lions that were all trying to crowd onto the top of a rock just below the water level.  They all lay on their backs extending their flippers in the air sunning themselves.   Later in the afternoon, after resting back on Lanikai for a few hours, we gathered our snorkel gear and dinghied around the north point of the island where we found a very large reef area and some interesting caves to explore.  Bill speared two nice fish for our dinner.

Monday August 28, 2000

The last two days we did not even drop the dinghy into the water.  Saturday I had a great radio contact with Craig in The Dalles.  Since it was a no-wind and rather warm day I spent much of the rest of the day reading in a cool spot.  Bill also spent the day in slow mode working with his computer.  Sunday dawned cloudy and windy.  Since the weather was not conducive to snorkeling Bill again spent the day at his computer and I read some more.

Today it was still mostly cloudy but we needed fresh fish so we dinghied around the west point and did some snorkeling.  Bill shot three nice triggerfish and after filleting them out he diced up two of them for ceviche.  I fixed up the ceviche and we invited Guy and Deborah from Elan over to help us eat it.  She brought over a great loaf of bread stuffed with cheese and pesto.  We enjoyed a yummy feast as we watched the wonderful sunset.

Wednesday August 30, 2000  -  Bahía de Las Animas

Yesterday we upped the anchor about 1:00 PM with a nice SE breeze and headed further north.  We had a great spinnaker sail for about two hours before we noticed a thunder storm approaching.  We downsized to the working jib and continued on.  About 30 minutes later the wind shifted to the west, the wind picked up and the rain cloud enveloped us.  The rain was so thick around us that even the radar was useless, so we slowed things down until it passed 2 hours later.  The lightning was way too close for comfort.  We then had to scurry to get into the anchorage before the sun set.

Today we are anchored at the south end of Bahía de Las Animas in a nice little nook. 

Friday September 1, 2000 --  Ensenada el Pescador

After two nights of early morning rollies anchored in Bahía de Las Animas we moved out of there yesterday.  Before leaving we tried snorkeling and not only was the snorkeling area not that picturesque under water but the current in the water made it almost impossible to look around.  The land above the water was very picturesque with the many shades of red of the soil and rocks as well as bits of green cactus and shrubs. 

We moved north to Ensenada el Pescador and anchored behind a little island off the beach.  Our trip north was in the light NW winds that had added to the rollies of the last anchorage (although we believe that worst of the rolls were caused by the current).

Today we checked out the snorkeling in our new location, and found a great spot just off the north point of the bay.  Bill shot another triggerfish for dinner and the area was very pretty underwater with colorful sponges, some coral and other plant type growth.  In the late afternoon we dinghied into shore to check out the tiny resort there.  We met the Mexican couple (Lydia and Magdaleno) that runs the place,  the pilot that brings in the tourists from San Diego, and the one family of tourists that were in residence now.  The camp, 12 small cabins and a central kitchen palapa, is part of the Baja Air Adventures chain and tourists are brought in to enjoy the fishing, snorkeling, kayaking and general good weather of the area.  

Monday September 4, 2000

Over the weekend we again snorkeled on various reefs around the bay here at Ensenada el Pescador,  The snorkeling off the island was great although shallow, and it was also great off the north point of the bay; but most of the other spots around the bay were not too spectacular.  We visited the shore-side resort again on Saturday and even enjoyed dinner with the other tourists.  Bill and I particularly enjoy practicing our Spanish while visiting with Lydia and Magdaleno.   I gathered shells on the island where there are a great number of nice ones.

Today we spent the morning with various boat projects and some cleaning then went ashore again.  There we spent several hours talking to Magdaleno: us practicing our Spanish and he working on some English.  Magdaleno is there by himself until another group of tourists arrives tomorrow evening.

Another boat has anchored in this bay so we stopped by to visit with them on our way back to Lanikai and ended up spending another few hours visiting there.

Thursday September 7, 2000 -  Bahía de Los Angeles

Tuesday afternoon we upped the anchor and moved into the Bahía de Los Angeles and anchored off the village.  A quick trip into town brought us two bags of groceries including some very nice tomatoes.  Since the clouds had come in with the thought of rain (and we did get a few sprinkles) we opted to remain on the boat and fix dinner using the new tomatoes.

Yesterday we were in and out of the village several times picking up food, water for laundry and lunch out.  Poor Bill on the water run:  the outboard refused to start after he had carried the 8 gallons of water to the dinghy and he had to row the entire distance back to Lanikai.  I put the water to good use though and soon had the lifelines full of drying clean laundry.   We enjoyed fresh Dorado on Elan with Guy and Deborah.  They had caught it off the south end of  Isla de la Guardia the day before.  It was great and I had picked up some yummy fruit at the market so we enjoyed a fruit salad with the fish.

Today was a hot HOT day!!  Bill spent much of the day on his computer under a fan and I was in and out of the water.  We did have a small group of about 4 whale sharks swim around the anchorage most of the early afternoon.  We got in the dinghy for a closer look.  They are sure interesting animals as they filter feed at the surface and they are very long.  Bill and I did dinner in town as it was too warm to want to cook onboard.

Monday  September  11, 2000

Friday we moved to the south end of the bay where we anchored with strong easterly winds coming over the hills to us.  We stayed there until today in spite of the numerous flies that swarmed our boat.  Bill has gotten real good with the flyswatter and managed to keep them under control much of the time.  We spent Sunday morning out snorkeling, but found nothing real interesting to look at under the water.  Above the water, the hills were quite interesting as they were covered with baseball size lava rocks, just like the rocks had been scattered by some giant to cover the land.  We sat out the humidity, SE winds and warmer weather brought up by hurricane Lane.  Sunday afternoon we had the strangest winds as they came from the south for a time then changed to the northeast and after a time back again to the south.  These winds were up to 25 knots in both directions and continued switching between the two directions most of the day. 

Today, when we were sure that Lane had passed west of the Baja, we moved the 10 miles north to Isla Smith and anchored behind little Mitlin Island, where we remembered the snorkeling to be good from our trip here two years ago. 

Wednesday September 13, 2000 - Isla Smith

Two mornings of snorkeling here and it is nice, but not as great as we remembered it being. The current is also quite strong as the new moon comes up tonight.   Bill has shot several triggerfish but even they are hard to find.  Last night we had ceviche for dinner made from two of the triggers and today’s two triggers will be fried for filling in fresh English muffins.  Yesterday afternoon everyone from the anchorage was invited over to Elan to play Mexican dominoes, which ended up lasting well into the late afternoon and early evening.  There are currently four boats anchored here in this pleasant little nook.

Friday September 15, 2000

The last two days have been hot and humid.  We have done some swimming and much reading under fans and out of the sun.   Bill has spent more time at the computer under his fan too.   He has added many stars to the star viewer and things are looking quite good.  His program now shows the navigation stars, the constellations, many named stars and many un-named ones as well as the visible planets. The magic cool-down date is upon us so we are all waiting for the weather to actually cool down.  PJ and Loretta are planning to leave S. California this weekend to drive down. 

Sunday September 18, 2000

We moved today and anchored again off the village of Bahía de Los Angeles.  I talked to PJ on the radio this morning and they were just getting ready to leave and are expected to arrive here sometime tomorrow.  Yesterday clouds came in and left us with blustery weather overnight.  This morning we even got enough rain to wash the decks.  The wash job was finished late this afternoon after we anchored off the village when we got wind and rain from a thunder bumper that came at us from the south and even brought cooler weather.